First Days in the Owyhee Canyonlands

First Camp

Photo: Seth Tonsmeire

Spring is in the air here in Idaho, trees are budding and water levels are rising. For me that puts a smile on my face. River running is in my near future. The Owyhee River is located in Southern Idaho and Eastern Oregon and usually one of the first things to run around here. Watching the gauge, it seemed like it was time to pack my bags, load my kayak, and get down there.

Photo: Seth Tonsmeire

Myself and the other four friends/guides in the group decided that the Lower Owyhee (Rome to Birch Creek) was our best option with the water that we had. We put on late in the afternoon, which put us just into the first canyon section about camp time. We found a small camp that fit us to perfection. The next morning when I woke up to the songs of canyon wrens instead of my barking blackberry alarm, I knew things were on the up and up. We spent the next 4 days just soaking up the canyon. There were many fun rapids and surf waves that I took full advantage of in my kayak. We all got our daily dose of hiking and exploring after some mellow days on the river. That combined with some great food and some beers around the campfire made for a great start to the spring boating season.

Indian Hunting Blind Photo: Seth Tonsmeire

Talking to some of the local ranchers around the Owyhee, last week was the first week that really felt like spring down there. The arrowleaf-balsm root are just starting to bloom on the lower end, which means in the next couple weeks the hill sides with be covered with yellow flowers. Canadian geese, several varieties of ducks, and other mating pairs of birds filled in canyon. The Owyhee River is also home to many different birds of prey.

Photo: Seth Tonsmeire

Guide Shane Moser in his private rig. Photo: Seth Tonsmeire

Photo: Seth Tonsmeire

Hope you enjoyed some of the photos, and if you want for check out more photos of this latest trip visit my new photo albums on the WRO facebook page (you don’t need to be on facebook to look at the pictures). Check back for reports on more adventures in the near future. Hope your having a great day!

Seth Tonsmeire

THE PULSE OF IDAHO'S DESERT CANYONS

photo: Seth Tonsmeire

After spending every summer on rivers in Idaho, Montana, Alaska & Canada for as long as I can remember, my most intimate experience with the wild has been in my own backyard, the Idaho desert.

I was 17 and it was my first time rowing a boat down the Jarbidge/Bruneau River with its headwaters just a few hours south of downtown Boise. This red-walled canyon has been described as one of the prettiest desert rivers in the country, and it strikes me as one of the Grand Canyons reclusive daughters (Colorado). Bighorn sheep, antelope, elk, mountain lions, beaver and a musically diverse list of song-birds all call the canyon home. The view from the rim is always mesmerizing and the rapid sections are exhilarating. You'd never imagine a place teeming with such energy in the middle of a desert.

It was the morning of our fourth day and I had allowed myself to fall back a few river bends behind the rest of our rafts. I liked doing this sometimes as I then could imagine I was out here alone, selfishly absorbing it all myself. This morning, the sun was emerging from the clouds and shooting down warm rays into the tall golden grasses lining the banks. The red-wing black birds were singing from every corner and I was just "blissing out" allowing my oar to make only a few drips as it slipped through the surface. Completely reclined. My eye drifted to a large chunk of drift wood mid-river just 150 feet downstream. I couldn't quite make out the shape, but the rate at which I was approaching had me clamoring back to attention. Whatever it was, it was now alive and swimming for the opposite bank. I blinked and squinted not believing. I don't remember breathing at all. Compulsively, I pulled back a few strokes. What was climbing out of the river just ahead of me was the most powerful example of the wildness that encompasses the Idaho desert. The desert cat. I'd seen mountain lions from a distance, but nothing like this. This cats soaking hair was slicked down as it pulled itself up the muddy bank. The muscles gleamed in the sun revealing the severe definition rippling through its entire body. I was frozen. Are these cats supposed to be this big? The thick tail and massive paws seemed out of place, astonishing. I was sure it had me by at least 20 lbs. No one told me this was some kind of safari adventure. The cat froze mid-stride and looked at me. The eyes were big, yellow and a little wild with surprise, like mine. That second was 10 seconds. Then it was gone.

photo: Seth Tonsmeire

I have never felt luckier, more full of respect and truly immersed in the beauty and wildness of Idaho. For the last 5 years I've returned each spring to this canyon. I haven't seen a cat again like that but each trip brings a new adventure and feeling of freedom and peace one way or another. I got lucky and was introduced by my parents to these river canyons but I can't help but think about all the people that haven't had the opportunity to experience this part of our backyard. Idaho in its element. So this is it. I'm sharing this experience for all of you and hoping it is the encouragement you need to find yourself drifting on the quiet pools or gazing from the rim at these slivers of desert perfection.

Recently (March,25,2009), the Owyhee Canyonlands Initiative has been passed designating 517,000 acres as Wilderness, establishing 316 miles of Wild and Scenic Rivers. and developing a plan and infrastructure to properly manage these areas. This area of newly protected river corridor includes the North, South and East Fork of the Owyhee, the Jarbidge and the Bruneau Canyons as well as key tributaries for each. Both the East Fork and South Fork of the Owyhee, the Jarbidge and the Bruneau are run by commercial rafting companies.

photo: Seth Tonsmeire

Spring is the perfect time for a trip through the desert. You can travel by trail or river, but to really get to know the canyon, I recommend taking to the water. The river is the life-blood of these canyons and being propelled along by its current is your perfect guide to the most vibrant corners of this desert. Floating these desert rivers require a spring journey to take advantage of water run-off from the surrounding mountains. Late April, May and June are ideal. You travel in comfort, eat well for days on end and spend your time doing exactly what you want. Lose yourself in it, spend a week or just 3 days, and get to know our Idaho desert canyons. You can thank me later.

Amy Tonsmeire

For more information and photos;
www.liskgallery.com/canyonlands/index.html
www.wildernessriver.com/owyhee.htm