Looking Up River at the start of the Impassable Canyon. photo: Shane Moser
Every day in Salmon, Idaho feels more and more like spring at this point. The grass is starting to green up, Mountain Blue Birds, Robins and many other migratory birds are showing up. The summer rafting season will be here before we know it! At WRO we are looking forward to getting back on the river for another great season. Our first scheduled commercial trip on the Middle Fork Salmon is June 16th. Although I will probably have to sneak out of the office here shortly for a little spring boating before June!
Middle Fork Salmon in April photo: Shane Moser
Check back for more updates and photos in the coming months!
40 years in Business in 2012! The years do slip by. Forty years ago we were just getting our rafting business going…acquired the last Main Salmon permit issued by the Salmon Forest Service, purchased Green River rafts which were the top of the line back then and started the search for more wild rivers in the West. The WRO guides were all Tonsmeires (picture below), who migrated to Idaho from guiding on the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon. Things have changed a bit over the years; we have lighter more maneuverable rafts that are self bailing, waterproof everything, comfortable lifejackets, and better designed tents and sleeping bags. Not to mention the gortex and polypropylene clothing. It’s made camping and rafting cushy.
Tonsmeire Brothers: The Original Crew
The one thing that hasn’t changed is our dedication to making your experience safe and adventurous. We believe a quality wilderness experience is one in which you interact intimately with the natural environment on wild rivers and in their beautiful canyons. We have remained committed to running small, spontaneous trips that make you feel young again. To find beauty in the ridiculously simple. To forget about deadlines and telephones. To gaze at the stars, soak in a hot springs, run fun rapids, enjoy campfire meals and forget about time. To feel like you’re with friends. These are the types of experiences we like to send our new friends home with.
Thanks to all of you who have contributed to these memorable years.
What is a scow? A scow is a large wooden boat, usually around 30ft long and 9ft wide. These large crafts were designed as cargo boats to deliver supplies and equipment along the Salmon River from Salmon City to Lewiston. This trip was 305 miles, with many challenges to face on each journey. These cargo giants supplied homesteaders, miners, sheepherders, and anyone else trying to make a living in the rugged Salmon River country.
Harry Guleke or “Cap Guleke” was one of the most well known drivers of these early scows. He was known for being the best boatman of his time, running cargo for more than 18 years and racking up as many as 200 trips down the Main Salmon! Guleke and his crew delivered ninety thousand pounds of equipment and supplies to the Salmon River Mining Company at Five Mile Bar, and nearly three million pounds of cargo during his career! Guleke and the wooden Salmon scow became well known when Field and Stream published an article about him in 1921. Newspaper articles and stories of the old days and historic boatman fill the Salmon Historical Museum. These boats were built in Salmon, heading downstream never to be seen again, giving the Main Salmon the nickname “The River of No Return.” Once these boats reached their destination they would be taken apart and the boatman would return for the next trip via railroad travel. Upon return to Salmon, they would start building a new boat in preparation for another departure from Salmon City. Guleke was a very well liked man and would always draw a crowd upon his departure.
Guleke Scow Downtown Salmon City in 1919
Other old timers like Johnny McKay would take a year to three years on this Main Salmon river journey. Often building a winter shelter of borrowed wood from the scow. Over these long trips, he would try to placer mine enough gold to buy supplies and build a boat for the next trip. Johnny McKay spent forty-eight years on the River of No Return, completing twenty trips. Inscriptions left on rocks by early boatman are the only reminder of these early days; many are at Barth Hot Springs (known earlier as Guleke Hot Springs). Whether hauling cargo or spending years placer mining on the banks of the river, these early characters pioneered river life on the Salmon River!
Big Boat Entering Black Canyon Rapid photo: Seth Tonsmeire
"Big Boat Idaho,” was built by local long time river-runner Jerry Myers of Salmon, Idaho. After much time and research, Jerry and his friends came up with the plans for a close to exact replica of the aforementioned historic boats. A few years after construction the scow made scenic float trips around town, but never passed the end of the road. The boat was parked in downtown Salmon for the last few years going unused and baking in the summer sun. Jon Green, a local Salmon City river runner and guide, decided that the boat had been parked long enough and needed to see the river once again. Jonny has a history degree and has always been very interested in the history of the Salmon River Canyon. He made the deal and was soon the proud new owner of a wooden scow, named “Big Boat Idaho.”
Big Boat at the original Guleke Hot Springs photo: Seth Tonsmeire
Bailey Rapid photo: Seth Tonsmeire
Captain Jonny and co-captain Shane Moser have been long time friends of mine. When I got the invite to join their scow trip, I did not want to miss this opportunity! Nine friends (mostly river guides) loaded up Big Boat Idaho and headed for Corn Creek, the end of the road! Over the next seven days, I experienced the Main Salmon in a new way, a flashback in time. The stories of the historic scow trips I have read now come with a new understanding, and more appreciation for these old time river-runners and pioneers of the Main Salmon.
Elkhorn Rapid photo: Seth Tonsmeire
5 Mile or Split Rock Rapid depending on who you ask...
Group Shot from the Big Boat trip
I hope you enjoy the photos and video from the “Big Boat Idaho” trip.
On the Main Salmon this year, the Skipper trip was on July 24th. Here at WRO everyone looks forward to this trip each year. Skipper Tonsmeire is family and comes out every year for a Middle Fork or Main Salmon trip. When Skipper organizes a trip you know everyone he invites is going to be a lot of fun! This year we had a great crew of both family and friends. Skipper brought his daughter Elizabeth and girlfriend Susan with daughter Clara. Greer Radcliff, who has been on several trips with us, rowed is own boat this time and did great. Greer and girlfriend Adair also invited some of his family which were a great addition to the group. Veronica Herndon, a great friend and long time guest here at WRO, brought her nephew. Veronica and Skipper are both members of the WRO Grand Slam Club! We also had Mac Tonsmeire and his family as well. It was great to spend some time with them. Safe travels to Mac Tonsmeire on his current tour in Afghanistan. We are all be thinking of you at WRO! Skipper also invited Fairhope, AL friend Richie Parsons and daughter Rachel. Richie provided some great campfire entertainment with his guitar. Another Fairhope friend, Jim Veal and daughter Madelyn, were also fun to have along. Jim always had a good joke and a great sense of humor.
This group shot was taken at one of the homesteads along the Salmon River. The Francis Zaunmiller homestead is one of the interesting historical sites of the Main Salmon. In the late 1800′s through the 1900′s there were some real characters living in the Salmon River Canyon. Francis being one of these for sure! Check out a short video of Francis on YouTube to get to know her!
Like most of the 2011 summer, we had great water for the middle of July. For myself and Henry it was great because we turned the corner off the July 19th Middle Fork trip onto this one. Anytime you can stay on the river for 11-days straight for the Middle Fork Main Salmon combination life is good! This is a multi-day classic of North America.
When we came around the corner at the Buckskin Bill Museum we saw a couple bighorn rams on the hillside. After looking closer we saw there were eight different rams hanging around together. It’s a special occasion to see a nice herd of rams just off the river. There were a good number of takers for the rappelling and rock climbing on this Main Salmon trip. Greer’s nephew Webb and Madelyn Veal both put forth an awesome effort in the rock climbing. Madelyn made it all the way to last few moves at the top. For anyone that has been there, you know that the handholds start to get pretty small, few, and far between. Webb was able to push through and make it to the top. We usually have very few people, if anyone, make it to the top each summer. Nice work Webb! I think he may have even earned $50 from Hutch who was providing a little extra incentive.
Henry got some good GoPro footage throughout the week that I used to put together the short video below. Also check out the new motion graphic we are using for our internet videos. Enjoy!
With the season now over, I am now finding time to sort through more photos and video from the 2011 season. Also it is clean up time around the shop. Cleaning and washing all our rafts is quite the chore at the end of the season. Check back for the next posting soon. I have some great shots of a historic wooden scow on the Main Salmon in September, definitely going to want to check those photos out!
The Main Salmon is such a great place to be in August! The water has warmed up to a great swimming temperature. It is still very refreshing, but on a hot summer day it is just the ticket. The beaches make for easy camping and it’s just a great river trip for the whole family!
On August 1st we had a great group, a mix of families and adults. The group started with Mac Thornton and his family of four. Mac had joined us on a Middle Owyhee trip a few years back as a kayaker and decided to bring his family back for a Main Salmon this summer. Mac’s brother Larry joined the party as well. After everyone invited a few friends and Mac invited another family, we were quickly up to 16 people on the trip! Everyone did not know each other previous to the trip, but everyone did have some connection with the rest of the group. It turned out to be a really fun group!
In this group there were some outstanding kayakers! Jumping right into the inflatable kayaks, and doing very well at it. There were definitely of few people that joined the Salmon River swim team that week, but that will happen. Also it’s part of the fun! The kayaks are the craft of “high adventure” and are often a quick favorite for those looking for a little extra excitement. The kayaks were definitely a highlight for this group! Other highlights for the group were hiking, rappelling, the hot springs, historical sites, the paddle boat, campfire time, and just spending family time and visiting with old friends!
There are more photos from this trip on the WROFlickr gallery, as well as a few on the facebook page. I also put together a short video from some of the GoPro footage. The video is in HD, so remember to give it time to load. Andre takes the cake with the best shot in the video! Watch him take a wave to the face in slow motion. The expression on his face made me laugh every time when editing the video. Enjoy!