photo: Seth Tonsmeire
After spending every summer on rivers in Idaho, Montana, Alaska & Canada for as long as I can remember, my most intimate experience with the wild has been in my own backyard, the Idaho desert.
It was the morning of our fourth day and I had allowed myself to fall back a few river bends behind the rest of our rafts. I liked doing this sometimes as I then could imagine I was out here alone, selfishly absorbing it all myself. This morning, the sun was emerging from the clouds and shooting down warm rays into the tall golden grasses lining the banks. The red-wing black birds were singing from every corner and I was just "blissing out" allowing my oar to make only a few drips as it slipped through the surface. Completely reclined. My eye drifted to a large chunk of drift wood mid-river just 150 feet downstream. I couldn't quite make out the shape, but the rate at which I was approaching had me clamoring back to attention. Whatever it was, it was now alive and swimming for the opposite bank. I blinked and squinted not believing. I don't remember breathing at all. Compulsively, I pulled back a few strokes. What was climbing out of the river just ahead of me was the most powerful example of the wildness that encompasses the Idaho desert. The desert cat. I'd seen mountain lions from a distance, but nothing like this. This cats soaking hair was slicked down as it pulled itself up the muddy bank. The muscles gleamed in the sun revealing the severe definition rippling through its entire body. I was frozen. Are these cats supposed to be this big? The thick tail and massive paws seemed out of place, astonishing. I was sure it had me by at least 20 lbs. No one told me this was some kind of safari adventure. The cat froze mid-stride and looked at me. The eyes were big, yellow and a little wild with surprise, like mine. That second was 10 seconds. Then it was gone.
photo: Seth Tonsmeire
I have never felt luckier, more full of respect and truly immersed in the beauty and wildness of Idaho. For the last 5 years I've returned each spring to this canyon. I haven't seen a cat again like that but each trip brings a new adventure and feeling of freedom and peace one way or another. I got lucky and was introduced by my parents to these river canyons but I can't help but think about all the people that haven't had the opportunity to experience this part of our backyard. Idaho in its element. So this is it. I'm sharing this experience for all of you and hoping it is the encouragement you need to find yourself drifting on the quiet pools or gazing from the rim at these slivers of desert perfection.
Recently (March,25,2009), the Owyhee Canyonlands Initiative has been passed designating 517,000 acres as Wilderness, establishing 316 miles of Wild and Scenic Rivers. and developing a plan and infrastructure to properly manage these areas. This area of newly protected river corridor includes the North, South and East Fork of the Owyhee, the Jarbidge and the Bruneau Canyons as well as key tributaries for each. Both the East Fork and South Fork of the Owyhee, the Jarbidge and the Bruneau are run by commercial rafting companies.
photo: Seth Tonsmeire
Spring is the perfect time for a trip through the desert. You can travel by trail or river, but to really get to know the canyon, I recommend taking to the water. The river is the life-blood of these canyons and being propelled along by its current is your perfect guide to the most vibrant corners of this desert. Floating these desert rivers require a spring journey to take advantage of water run-off from the surrounding mountains. Late April, May and June are ideal. You travel in comfort, eat well for days on end and spend your time doing exactly what you want. Lose yourself in it, spend a week or just 3 days, and get to know our Idaho desert canyons. You can thank me later.
Amy Tonsmeire
For more information and photos;
www.liskgallery.com/
www.wildernessriver.com/
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